The day got off to a good early start with this large Barn Owl (Tyto alba) at about 4:00am in Barrackpore.

Barn Owl (Tyto alba)

Barn Owls have a universal distribution and more than 20 different subspecies are known to exist throughout the world. The sub-species found in Trinidad & Tobago, Tyto alba hellmayri, is also found over much of northern South America. This owl can be found relatively easily at night in open country where exposed perches are available. (such as a signboard in this instance). Good locations for this species include playing fields and along the roadside in sugar-cane fields, rice fields and marshland (for example, the Trantrail Road in Valsayn and the S.S. Erin Road near Debe).

Two hours later and the entrance to Morne Bleu’s Radio Tropospheric Scatter Station finally appeared after a final sharp bend in the road. At the top of the hill a small group had already assembled. Unfortunately, much of the view that is usually enjoyed at the overlook was blocked by overgrown vegetation. Great Antshrikes, Golden-crowned Warblers and several Collared Trogons were observed and this lone Hepatic Tanager (Piranga rubra), a Morne Bleu “specialty” was seen feeding on moths.

Hepatic Tanager (Piranga flava)

This highland Tanager is distinguished from other red tanagers by its overall brick red plumage, dark bill and legs. It is only likely to be confused with resident species like the Silver-beaked Tanager or Red-crowned Ant-Tanager and migrant species like the Summer Tanager or Scarlet Tanager (both of which are rather rare visitors)

Hepatic Tanager (Piranga flava)

Other bird species present included Bay-headed Tanagers, Palm Tanagers, a Scaled Pigeon and a Gray-headed Kite but not much else of note was seen. There seemed to be an absence that morning of the many moths that are usually encountered at Morne Bleu and which many bird species have learned to exploit as a food source. This absence might account for the relatively low diversity of bird species there that morning.

We proceeded to Las Lapas, stopping along the way to conduct point counts. This added forest species such as Purple Honeycreeper, Golden-olive Woodpecker and Green Hermit to the growing list. At Las Lapas a female America Redstart (Setophaga ruticilla) was found feeding along the roadside.

American Redstart (Setophaga ruticilla)

This migrant Warbler is a common visitor to the mangroves and woodlands of Trinidad and Tobago during the northern winter.

High overhead a pair of Bat Falcons (Falco rufigularis) called to each other as they rode the strong winds in search of prey, occasionally returning to a dead tree to rest.

Bat Falcon (Falco rufigularis)

This small attractive falcon gets its name from its principal diet of bats which are caught in flight. They will often eat the bats while still flying but may also return to a convenient perch to consume their catch. Besides bats, they will also feed on insects and small birds that they catch.

Heading down the Las Lapas trail we caught glimpses of Gray-throated Leaftossers as they left their nest burrows in the trail’s embankment. Euler’s Flycatcher, White-flanked Antwren and White-necked Thrushes were also seen along the way.

In case anyone grew tired of counting birds they could count butterflies – literally.

89 (Diaethria clymena)

Known locally as the “89” butterfly for the remarkable numerical pattern on the underside of its wings, Diaethria clymena is widely distributed in Trinidad and is commonly seen in proximity to Trema  micrantha trees on which their caterpillars feed.

Not commonly seen however, is this gorgeous male Summer Tanager (Piranga rubra).

Summer Tanager (Piranga rubra)

Related to the aforementioned Hepatic Tanager, the male Summer Tanager has brilliant red plumage and a yellow bill. It is a migrant from North America on passage further south to the South American mainland.

As the time wore on we decided to call it a day. Back at the head of the trail, as we rested under the shade of an avocado tree, two Yellow-tufted Prepona (Prepona laertes) (referred to by Barcant as the Purple King Shoemaker) were observed feeding on the sap exuded from a cut in the tree’s bark. Also attempting to join the feast was a Red Cracker (Hamadryas amphinome) (referred to by Barcant as the King Cracker), another “sap sucking” species.

Yellow-tufted Prepona/Purple King Shoemaker (Prepona laertes)

Red Cracker (Hamadryas amphinome)

The presence of these insects may have caught the eye of this gorgeous male Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris) which perched briefly in the tree before flying up to pluck some unseen food morsel from the branches and then flying off.

Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris)

It was also time for us to leave as we ended a productive and enjoyable morning. Hopefully the new year will bring many more rewarding experiences for all of us as we continue to explore the natural environment of Trinidad & Tobago.

Driving through the drier agricultural areas of the SOL it is possible to find the Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild). The waxbill is native to the African continent but it is a popular cage-bird in the pet trade.

Common Waxbill (Estrilda astrild)

This popularity eventually led to birds either escaping or being deliberately set free and feral populations are now established in Europe, Hawaii, Bermuda and Brazil. The bird was first detected in the Orange Grove area of Trinidad in 1990 (Hayes and White 2000) and has slowly made its way south. By 2008 it was detected in the SOL.

Also in these agricultural areas of the SOL it is possible to find the Tri-coloured Munia (Lonchura malacca). With their large ivory bills, these large attractive finches bear a superficial resemblance to the familiar ‘bullfinch’ or Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch.

Tri-coloured Munia (Lonchura malacca).

The munias are native to Sri Lanka and India but it is popular as a cage-bird and feral populations of escaped/released birds have become established in Cuba, Jamaica, Puerto Rico and Venezuela. They were found to be living in the SOL in 2008. Given their similarity to the ‘bullfinch’, my own suspicion is that munias were smuggled across from Venezuela with the expectation that they shared the latter’s ability to sing. The Tri-coloured Munia is however a dreadful songster and was probably liberated soon after this realization.

My intention that morning was to try to photograph a Gray-breasted Crake and for this I chose a dry grass-field that had been cleared by fire in the recent past. Crakes usually respond well to audio playback of their calls and after a few minutes a crake briefly popped its head out of the grass before disappearing again. I thought that it would reappear for sure and soon there came a rustling from the bushes nearby. It wasn’t a crake that emerged but yet another foreigner – the Indian Mongoose (Herpestes javanicus).

Indian Mongoose (Herpestes javanicus)

As most readers would probably know, the Indian Mongoose was brought across to the Caribbean from South Asia in an attempt to control the snakes and rats that inhabited the cane-fields. It would hard to say what effect they had on their intended prey but the mongoose did not limit themselves to cane-field pests. They ate small birds, eggs, nestlings, small mammals, small reptiles and amphibians alike. No doubt it was attracted to the sound of the crake and had intended to make a meal of it.

I figured that with a mongoose in the area I should try my luck elsewhere. As I approached another dry field I inadvertently flushed this Upland Sandpiper (Bartramia longicauda) from the short grasses (unlike many sandpipers, the Upland Sandpiper favors dry ground).

Upland Sandpiper (Bartramia longicauda)

No escapee from a cage this time, the Upland Sandpiper is a long-distance migrant flying all the way from as far north as Alaska and migrating every year to South America, venturing as far south as Argentina. Besides the Upland Sandpiper, there are approximately 40 other migrant bird species that visit the SOL yearly.

And while a routine migration over such a distance is amazing, the SOL was also the destination of at least one even more amazing albeit accidental journey. As reported in a previous post, a Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) had been found feeding here in July 2008. The bird had a band on its leg that was eventually traced back to Donana National Park in Spain, nearly 6,000 km away. Such a journey is facilitated by the prevailing NE trade winds which can drive a bird straight to the Caribbean. It is of course a one way trip for these birds with no way of flying against the trade winds to get back home.

Returning home might be a tactic employed by another feathered traveler. That morning I came across this large flock of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks (Dendrocygna autumnalis) in the swamp consisting of at least 40 individuals.

Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks (Dendrocygna autumnalis)

The population of these ducks has benefited from the breeding programme at the Pointe-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust.  It has been said that these ducks return ‘home’ to the Trust to raise their young. It had even been suggested that the birds did this to avoid hunters during the open season. It would be hard to say whether this is true. However these ducks had to have come from somewhere as they were not in the area a few months ago. Alternatively, they might have been breeding deep within the Godineau Swamp or even the nearby Rousillac Swamp. Another possibility is that the local population is supplemented by birds dispersing from the Venezuelan mainland.

If the latter is true then the ducks might recognize a fellow Venezuelan marsh dweller amongst the vegetation.

Scarthyla vigilans

The small frog Scarthyla vigilans was recorded in Trinidad only in July 2010 (Murphy 2011:pers. comm). This frog was first thought to be endemic to the Maracaibo Lake basin in Venezuela (Rojas-Runjaic et al 2008). Apparent range expansions resulted in several other populations being established in northern South America. It is however not likely to be a recent arrival in Trinidad but was probably overlooked previously or misidentified as another frog. I only recently learnt of its presence but its characteristic day-time vocalizations make it easy to identify. It seems to be established in suitable habitat over much of south Trinidad.

Other foreigners lurk in these waterways. The Three-spot Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) was discovered in the SOL in 2009 (Mohammed et al 2010).

Three-spot Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) - Photo - Mohammed R.S. et al 2011

The dead individual pictured above was removed from the stomach of a Guabine (Hoplias malbaricus) by researchers studying the Gourami population. It is native to the Mekong Basin in South East Asia but is very common in the international pet trade and is a popular aquarium fish in Trinidad & Tobago. Needless to say, some individuals either escaped or were released into the SOL or one of its tributaries.

Another aquatic invader is the Malaysian Prawn (Macrobrachium rosenbergii) which was documented in the SOL in 2005 (Rostant 2005; Mohammed et al 2011).

Last but not least, there is even a foreign plant species that has escaped into the SOL. Limnocharis flava is a freshwater plant native to Asia.

Limnocharis flava

This plant has also spread to parts of the United States and South America. It is edible and was possibly introduced to Trinidad as a food plant or as an ornamental for artificial ponds. Alternatively, seeds might have also been accidental transported in imported rice seeds or agricultural equipment.

In preparing this article I was myself surprised by the number of non-resident species present in the South Oropouche Lagoon. For better or worse many of these species will eventually be regarded as part of our flora and fauna. Despite their diverse origins I suppose our national anthem says it all – “Here every creed and race find an equal place”. It would seem that this applies to the wildlife as well.

References

Hayes, F.E. and White, G. 2000. First report of the Trinidad and Tobago Rare Bird Committee. Living World, Journal of the Trinidad and Tobago Field Naturalist Club, 1999-2000: 39-45

Mohammed, R. S., Ramjohn, C., Lucas, F. and Rostant, W. G. 2010. Additional Observations on the Distribution of Some Freshwater Fish of Trinidad and the Record of an Exotic. Living World, Journal of the Trinidad and Tobago Field Naturalist Club, 2010: 43-53

Mohammed, R. S., Ramjohn, C. and Bhukal, R. 2011. Malaysian Prawns, Macrobrachium rosenbergii, Trinidad’s Invasive Alien; Biological Indicator or Aquaculture Species? Living World, Journal of the Trinidad and Tobago Field Naturalist Club, 2011: 66-69

Rostant, W.G. 2005. Freshwater Decapod Communities of Trinidad and Tobago. M. Phil Thesis. Department of Life Sciences, The University of the West Indies. 180 p.

Rojas-Runjaic, F.J.M., Barrio-Amorós, C.L., Molina, C., Señaris, J.C. and Fedón, I.C. 2008. Amphibia, Anura, Hylidae, Scarthyla vigilans: Range extensions and new state records from Delta Amacuro and Miranda states, Venezuela. URL <www.checklist.org.br/getpdf?NGD109-08>

The Inniss-Trinity Field Reservoir

Unfortunately I cannot seem to find much literature about the Inniss-Trinity Field Reservoir. It is maintained by WASA, supposedly as a source of potable water but the agency’s website does not make mention of it.  The surrounding Inniss oilfield was identified as a valuable butterfly collecting area by Malcom Barcant, author of “The Butterflies of Trinidad and Tobago”. He made particular reference to the presence of Papillo torquatus in the area (a butterfly he feared no longer existed on the island) stating “In May 1960 suspicions of its occurrence in the Cat’s Hill Reserve came to light and in June 1961 a secluded area within the forest at Inniss Field, Cat’s Hill (north of the dam) was found to be very productive”. But all other references that I found were in reference to its value as an oil producing region. It seemed likely that the area would have a lot of value for birdwatching as well and I often imagined (dreamed?) that one day maybe a Sungrebe or Rufescent Tiger-Heron or some other rare bird might be found skulking about the forest edged reservoir.

Our first attempt to explore the newly ‘discovered’ road was hampered by heavy rains and while we were able to catch a glimpse of the reservoir, the rains made the muddy track that led to the water’s edge impassable.

Still, the visit showed us the great potential of the area for birdwatching. The road is bordered by dense forest interrupted by the occasional oilwell. During the brief breaks in the rainstorm several pairs of Channel-billed Toucans (Ramphastos vitellinus) were seen on exposed branches trying to dry their soaked feathers in the damp morning air.

Channel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus)

The forest canopy is not particularly high and the occasional patches of Bactris palms inside the forest might indicate that the area was once logged for timber. However I could not detect any recent signs of logging activity in the area.

Also seen trying to dry itself in the trees bordering an oilwell clearing was this large raptor, believed to be a Great Black-Hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga).

Possibly a Great Black-Hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga). Photograph © Dave Smith

This hawk can be distinguished from the very similar Common Black Hawk (Buteogallus anthracinus) by the size of its beak, long legs, overall body size and by the extent of white on its tail. Later that day we were fortunate to find a Common Black Hawk in a similar soggy predicament, trying to dry itself in a pose that allowed for a comparison.

Great Black Hawk (LHS) and Common Black Hawk (RHS). Photographs © Dave Smith

Both of these birds of prey feed on small birds, reptiles and mammals that they encounter in the forest. Additionally, Common Black Hawks are fond of crabs and can also be seen along forest streams, mangrove swamps and along the coast.

Birds of prey are not the only dangers for small animals in this area. We came across two Fer-de-Lance (Bothrops atrox) mere meters apart from each other. Both snakes had been killed only hours before by oilfield workers as they crossed the road.

Fer-de-Lance (Bothrops atrox)

The Fer-de-Lance is one of four venomous snakes found in Trinidad. Its venom contains a potent hemotoxin which destroys red blood cells and causes general tissue damage. Death is quite possible unless the appropriate antivenin is administered.

Fer-de-Lance (Bothrops atrox)

The four venomous snakes of Trinidad are not protected by law if they are found on private land because of the potential threat they pose to human life. Venomous snakes are protected if they are found on state lands but it is unlikely any game warden or police officer would enforce this law given the aforementioned danger. Indeed, both snakes were killed a stone’s throw from a makeshift office used by oilfield workers.

Our second visit to the Inniss-Trinity Field, two weeks later, was even better. We wanted to head out to Cat’s Hill early that morning and managed to arrive at 5:00 am that morning. Our intention was to find the Mottled Owl (Ciccaba virgata) that had been previously seen in the area (see Noteworthy bird sightings: May 2011). Along the way several nightjars, most likely Paraques (Nyctidromus albicollis), were flushed along the road. Many nightjars have the habit of ‘sitting’ along the quieter country roads at night to hunt for flying insects. Unfortunately nightjars are often killed by vehicles because of this (See Road Mortality gallery).

We succeeded in attracting the Mottled Owl by using an audio recording of its call and by using a torch we were able to get a few decent views of it. Caution must always be taken when using audio playback to attract birds as excessive usage can become very stressful for them. For this reason we did not make any serious attempt at photography and left soon after (The picture below was taken when the bird was first seen in May).

Mottled Owl (Ciccaba virgata)

As dawn broke we ventured deeper into the Inniss-Trinity Field. From the depths of the forest, hopelessly out of our view, a Bearded Bellbird (Procnias averano) was heard calling. Better known as a forest bird of the mountainous Northern Range, bellbirds are resident in the Southern Range although they are hard to observe given the flatter terrain (Do they live in the Central Range as well?). Another forest resident which was up and about that morning was the attractive Black-tailed Tityra (Tityra cayana) which was feeding in a tree along the road. This offered me the best views that I have ever had of this handsome species. Unfortunately, in my excitement it did not occur to me to take a photograph. I didn’t make the same mistake when we came upon this Scaled Pigeon (Patagioenas speciosa) later that morning.

Scaled Pigeon (Patagioenas speciosa)

In my experience this fruit eating forest pigeon is always quite skittish and usually doesn’t hang around for photographs. When it flew off a few minutes later it might have been because it saw this bird approaching.

Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus)

The magnificent Swallow-tailed Kite (Elanoides forficatus) is a regular visitor to forests in Trinidad but its regularity in no way detracts from its graceful beauty. The bird flew low overhead before plunging into the canopy of a nearby tree to snatch something. It must have missed as the kite emerged clutching only a few leaves.

Another photogenic raptor was the ubiquitous Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea).

Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea)

They are considered breeding visitors to the island but a few individuals stay year round and can be found in considerable numbers in the forests of South Trinidad. Large numbers of both kite species will occasionally flock together and ride the forest thermals in a swirling mass referred to as a ‘kettle’. Unlike Swallow-tailed Kites, the Plumbeous Kites are almost entirely insect eaters.

Eventually we arrived at the Inniss-Trinity Field Reservoir and proceeded on foot down the muddy track to the causeway that crosses the south-western end of the reservoir. Here, on the wet earth, various butterflies gathered to take in dissolved salts including a Many-banded Daggerwing (Marpesia chiron marius) and an unidentified hesperid (The Daggerwing is referred to by Barcant as the “Road Page”).

Many-banded Daggerwing (Marpesia chiron marius)

Unidentified Hesperid butterfly

At the waters edge we searched for birds out on the open water and on nearby trees. Disappointingly, only a few Wattled Jacanas and a Limpkin were seen – so much for skulking Sungrebes and Tiger-Herons.

The Inniss-Trinity Field Reservoir

As I mentioned before, I am not sure of the history of the Inniss-Trinity Field Reservoir but I assume it is man made. Several partially submerged tree trunks may also indicate that the water level has risen in recent times (unless the tree trunks have somehow remained intact since the dam was first formed)

Submerged tree in the Inniss Reservoir

The reservoir must have originally been used as a water source to facilitate oil extracting operations in the area. Currently, oil production in the area has been contracted out to Norway based FRAM Explorations. According to the company’s website “Fram plans to commence an aggressive development drilling program starting Fourth Quarter 2011. The wells are expected to produce 80-100 bopd from previously overlooked and/or under-evaluated horizons”. I only hope that aggressive exploration does not translate into extensive environmental damage in the area (more on FRAM Explorations here)

FRAM Exploration

We decided to call it a day at this point and headed back out. Along the way we heard and then saw this very co-operative Bright-rumped Attila (Attila spadiceus)

Bright-rumped Attila (Attila spadiceus)

This drab forest bird is more often heard than seen, but is easily recognized by its melodious vocalizations. Fortunately this one remained on an exposed branch for several minutes.

Quite contrary to the drab Attila was this flamboyant but rather unmusical Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos). The Crimson-crested Woodpecker can be distinguished from the similar Lineated Woodpecker by several facial features but the white ‘spot’ under the eye of this bird was a definite indicator of a male Crimson-crested.

Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos)

In the end it was a very rewarding trip with lovely views of some lovely birds. We still need to explore the other approaches to the Inniss-Trinity Dam and given that the area is such a great place to look for birds we will definitely be back. We just have to remember to look for those Fer-de-Lance too!

The road to Inniss-Trinity Field Reservoir

Nestled in the Maracas Valley, Yerettê is the brainchild of one of Trinidad and Tobago’s well known bird photographers, Dr. Theodore Ferguson. What began as an experiment with one feeder has now become an attraction for birdwatchers and the Ferguson’s unassuming patio is now lined with hummingbird feeders. With the help of his wife Gloria, it has quickly become one of the best sites in the country to observe our hummingbirds. Indeed, twelve of Trinidad and Tobago’s seventeen species of hummingbirds have so far been recorded at Yerettê. Just as remarkable is the sheer number of birds that regularly flood the area and they can easily number in their hundreds. So, with such good odds in my favor, I arrived at Yerettê that morning hoping to see all twelve of them.

Black-throated Mango (Anthracothorax nigricollis) - Male

The Black-throated Mango (Anthracothorax nigricollis) was one of the more noticeable hummingbird species at the feeders that day. This hummingbird is common in a wide range of habitats at all levels. Larger than most of Trinidad and Tobago’s hummingbirds, Black-throated Mangos are sexually dimorphic – which means that the sexes are visibly different. Males have a black throat that is bordered by iridescent blue when seen in proper lighting.

Black-throated Mango (Anthracothorax nigricollis) - Female

Female birds are very easy to identify, thanks to their bold chest markings of black and white.

But that flash of white may also have been a White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora).

White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora) - Female

Unlike the previous species, this hummingbird shows a clear preference for forests and is often seen feeding at flowers in the canopy of forest trees on both islands. The male Jacobin has a dark blue head and a white belly. They have white tail feathers and several were seen that morning, spreading their tails in flight when displaying to other Jacobins.

White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora) - Immature

Immature males, like the one shown here, have a noticeable brown patch on their faces while females have a very scaly appearance and lack the male’s stunning blue head.

Another forest dwelling hummingbird there that morning was the magnificently iridescent Blue-chinned Sapphire (Chlorestes notata).

Blue-chinned Saphire (Chlorestes notata) - Male

Its metallic green plumage shone brightly when in the proper lighting. So too does its blue chin from which the bird’s name is derived. While it is common in Trinidad it has not been recorded in Tobago for decades.

The Long-billed Starthroat (Heliomaster longirostris) is a widespread inhabitant of forested areas in Trinidad. It is not present in Tobago.

Long-billed Starthroat (Heliomaster longirostris) - Male

True to its name, its bill is quite long relative to our other local hummingbird species. The above photograph, unfortunately, does not capture the gorgeous blue cap and ruby throat of the male.

Don’t let this photograph fool you either.

Tufted Coquette (Lophornis ornatus) - Immature

This remarkably tame immature male Tufted Coquette (Lophornis ornatus) does little to reflect the fantastic plumage of adult males which is not unlike the ornate Carnival costumes that crossed the stage of Dimanche Gras the night before (Click here to see an adult male in plumage). This is Trinidad’s smallest hummingbird and, at 2.3 grams, it is the second smallest hummingbird in the entire world. It is not found in Tobago.

One of the more common species at Yerettê that morning was the Copper-rumped Hummingbird (Amazilia tobaci).

Copper-rumped Hummingbird (Amazilia tobaci)

Indeed, this hummingbird is a familiar sight throughout Trinidad and Tobago. They are identified by their bronze-coloured lower back and steel blue tail feathers. Like many hummingbirds, it quickly becomes accustomed to human activity and will often allow a very close approach.

Another very common hummingbird at the feeders was the White-chested Emerald (Amazilia brevirostris).

White-chested Emerald (Amazilia brevirostris)

It is rather sedately plumaged compared to its relatives – males and females are similar in appearance, having predominantly emerald green upperparts with a white chest and belly. It is found in much the same range of habitats as the Copper-rumped Hummingbird, but is not found in Tobago.

If looking at a Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird (Chrysolampis mosquitus) in bad light, you would be excused for thinking that the bird was a rather dull brown.

Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird (Chrysolampis mosquitus) - Male

However, if seen in the right light, the glowing topaz throat and ruby red crown are at once apparent. The Ruby-Topaz is equally at home at higher elevations as it is at sea level and it inhabits a wide range of environments from gardens to dry scrub to forest to swamp.

Ruby-Topaz Hummingbird (Chrysolampis mosquitus) - Female

Also seen that day were all three members of the Hermit family – represented on our islands by the Rufous-breasted, Green and Little Hermits. These hummingbirds are more at home in the forest undergrowth and seem to shun the open sunlit areas of the Ferguson’s garden, preferring to feed at the shaded feeders instead (as a result I was unable to get any good photographs).

The only one of Yerettê’s species that I did not see that morning was, unsurprisingly, the rarest. The Brown Violetear (Colibri delphinae) is a rarely seen resident of Trinidad and Tobago’s forests. Usually only a few sightings of this bird are reported in the country each year and Yerette has been fortunate to have had them make an appearance at the feeders occasionally.

Nevertheless, it was a remarkable way to spend a Carnival Monday morning, watching these jeweled revelers of the sky. And there are other hummingbird species that the Fergusons still hope to one day see in their garden. The Blue-tailed Emerald and the rare Rufous-shafted Woodstar are both possible candidates. They should not be too surprised if they see me in their garden again as well.

Yerettê: Home of the Hummingbird

The Christmas bird count has its origins in North America when, in 1900, the National Audubon Society held its first count. Since then the tradition of holding an annual count has probably spread to anywhere serious birdwatchers are found. Over time these annual bird counts result in a statistical database from which inferences can be made about bird populations – Is the population of Spectacled Thrushes increasing? Are Tufted Coquettes moving to lower elevations?

The bird counts are also just plain fun.

The count in Trinidad was held on January 2^nd 2011 (The count can be held any day between December 14^th and January 5^th). Our small group started at the Textel Station on Morne Bleu. It was a cold and rainy morning but we managed to get to the station a few minutes after 6:00am. Through the dense mist Short-tailed Nighthawks (Lurocalis semitorquatus) chased after their unseen prey. How these insect eaters managed to spot their food in this kind of weather I don’t know. Even the station’s towering radio mast, itself many thousands of times larger than any insect, occasionally disappeared from view.

Radio mast at Morne Bleu shrouded in mist

The station’s lights attract countless insects during the night and by morning many moths can be found lingering in the area.

Ceratocilia damonalis

Birds have learnt to exploit this daily feast and several species were already on site. An American Redstart (Setophaga ruticilla), Dusky-capped Flycatchers (Myiarchus tuberculifer), Tropical Peewees (Contopus cinereus) and a Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus) provided a good start to the day’s count

A female Hepatic Tanager (Piranga flava) flew up to the station’s fence and joined the queue for breakfast.

Hepatic Tanager (Piranga flava)

These tanagers are highland specialists and according to Richard Ffrench are found only above 1000 ft in the Northern Range. In contrast to the dull olive-green of the female, the male Hepatic Tanager has an attractive red coloration.

At the far end of the station’s fence a female Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris) perched patiently while on the lookout for insects.

A female Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris)

These trogons are omnivorous, feeding both on small soft fruits and insects alike. When hunting, it will sit motionless on its perch and slowly rotate its head in search of prey. After a while the bird dived gracefully to snatch a small moth a few inches off the ground and then flew off into the dark undergrowth. It was not long after it left that a male Collared Trogon showed up. The female Collared Trogon is attractive in its own way but the male Collared Trogon is the real showstopper.

A male Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris)

This feast for the eyes was perched on a support cable. Like the other trogon, it too was looking for a meal. Collared Trogons are commonly found on both islands, however in Trinidad they seem to prefer the higher altitude forests of the Northern Range. Despite the presence of the other two resident Trogons in south Trinidad (Violaceous and Green-backed), I have never seen a Collared Trogon in any of the southern forests.

Also feeding at the station that morning was this confiding Golden-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus culicivorus).

Golden-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus culicivorus)

Unlike the aforementioned American Redstart (a migrant warbler), the Golden-crowned Warbler is one of our three resident Warblers. It is a common inhabitant of forest undergrowth but is usually wary of humans. This individual, perhaps in a fit of avian gluttony, fearlessly hunted small insects a few feet from us.

Eventually we descended from the hilltop and proceeded to Las Lapas. I must admit that having spent most of my time bird-watching in south Trinidad that I am not yet familiar with many of the Northern Range birds. The unfamiliar calls of Stripe-breasted Spinetails (Synallaxis cinnamomea), Black-faced Antthrushes (Formicarius analis) and Slaty-capped Flycatchers (Leptopogon superciliaris) were identified by other members of the group. In the gloom of the undergrowth an Euler’s Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus euleri) hawked for insects.

Euler’s Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus euleri)

Buff wing-bars and an orange lower mandible help to identify this small flycatcher. Also at home in the undergrowth was this White-throated Spadebill (Platyrinchus mystaceus).

White-throated Spadebill (Platyrinchus mystaceus)

As we descended along the Las Lapas trail two Rusty-tipped Pages (Siproeta epaphus) fed on a flowering vine.

Rusty-tipped Page (Siproeta epaphus)

In “Butterflies of Trinidad and Tobago” this butterfly was considered by Malcom Barcant to be one of the twelve rarest butterflies in Trinidad. At that time it was a recent colonizer of Trinidad but the population has probably expanded significantly since then as we found a third individual later that day at Lopinot.

By the end of the day we were all quite tired but had enjoyed ourselves immensely. Other notable birds seen included two Common Black Hawks (Buteogallus anthracinus), one Gray Hawk (Buteo nitidus), one White Hawk (Leucopternis albicollis), one Long-billed Starthroat (Heliomaster longirostris), two Tufted Coquettes (Lophornis ornatus) and one Gray-throated Leaftosser (Sclerurus albigularis). Not a bad way to start the new year!

Download a summary of the Las Lapas/Lopinot Bird count (2010)

View the compiled results for Trinidad & Tobago on the National Audubon Society’s website

A marsh, on the other hand, gives an observer the chance to focus. A lone heron fishes patiently from its water-lily platform. A caiman suns itself on an exposed bank. A crake calls, unseen amongst the reeds. I find it rather relaxing. And while herons and crakes are lovely marshland inhabitants, my favourite marsh birds are ducks. A duck is the quintessential marsh bird – perfectly at home in the water. And it was a duck, cutting to the point of my story, which led us to Kernahan on a clear October morning. A White-faced Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna viduata), the rarest of the three whistling ducks, had been seen here several weeks before and we had hoped to catch up with it.

We arrived in Kernahan just after sunrise (and I hope you appreciate how early one has to get up in the morning to be in Nariva at sunrise) and the residents of the area were already hard at work. Kernahan is a small settlement engaged in the cultivation of water-melon, pepper, cucumbers and rice. Additionally the residents depend on the natural resources of the swamp, including the harvesting of Cascadura (Hoplosternum littorale), Black Conch (Pomacea urceus) and crabs. The illegal large-scale cultivation of rice, by non-residents, commenced in the 1980s and led to the destruction of large areas of the swamp. This was protested extensively and the cultivation was eventually halted by the government. In 1993 the swamp was declared a wetland of international significance under the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands of International Importance.

Kernahan, Nariva

It did not take us long to see our first ducks. Small groups of Blue-winged Teal (Anas discors) occasionally took to the air and flew over the marshy lagoons. We eventually located a group, 20+ strong, resting in an open lagoon.

Blue-winged Teal (Anas discors) in Kernahan

These ducks are visitors, migrating from the United States and Canada during the northern winter. Beginning in September, they arrive in considerable numbers and probably account for the majority of wild ducks taken during the hunting season. At this time the birds are in eclipse (non-breeding) plumage and this accounts for their drab appearance.

In addition to the White faced duck, we were also on the lookout for the Azure Gallinule (Porphyrio flavirostris). The Azure Gallinule has an interesting history in Trinidad. Despite extensive work done in the area by the TVRL in the Nariva area (see post Back to Bush-Bush), the bird was not discovered until 1978. This suggests that either they went unnoticed all that time or that Azure Gallinules are relatively recent colonizers of Trinidad from the South American mainland. Since then, they have been observed twice in the Caroni ricefields but the Nariva Swamp remains the only reliable location to see this species in Trinidad.

Dirt track in Kernahan

We searched for the bird in the marshes on either side of this dirt track. The Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio martinica), its much commoner relative, is found in considerable numbers here as well. Arguably one of the prettiest birds in Trinidad and Tobago, it is often overlooked by naturalists because of its ubiquitous presence in our marshes.

Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio martinica)

It is also widely hunted by locals and is sometimes referred to by its vernacular name of “Waterman”.

Also keeping us company on the track was a small group of Plain-breasted Ground-Doves (Columbina minuta). These doves are smaller than the common Ruddy Ground-Doves and have much paler under-parts. In addition, the males also have a noticeable blue-grey crown.

Plain-breasted Ground-Dove (Columbina minuta)

Eventually we did succeed in finding our Azure Gallinule.

Azure Gallinule (Porphyrio flavirostris).

As you can see it was a rather difficult bird to photograph owing to its habit of hiding in the vegetation. It is also a rather small bird, noticeably smaller than the Purple Gallinule (a better image can be found here).

The Azure Gallinule was exciting enough but moments after, as we proceeded along the track, a large animal appeared ahead of us. It took me a while to realize what it was and by that time it had already slipped back into the water without allowing me a chance to photograph it. It was a Neotropical River Otter (Lontra longicaudis). I would never have guessed that my first encounter with this secretive mammal would have taken place in Nariva and certainly not in the rather inglorious backdrop of a roadside drainage canal – I always imagined them swimming in crystal clear, forest bordered, streams. But I take it to be a good sign that it survives in the area. Indeed, they have been reported from the Ortoire River to the south and the North Oropouche River to the north.

A nearby flooded field was host to several bird species – Lesser Yellowlegs, Greater Yellowlegs, Semipalmated Plovers and Black-bellied Plover. There was also a lone Buff-breasted Sandpiper among the group – it is considered a rare visitor to Trinidad. But still no sign of our White Faced Whistling Duck. The common Black-bellied Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis) made an appearance however.

Black-bellied Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis)

These ducks are often active at night and their whistles can be heard as they fly in darkness overhead. Despite pressure from hunting, Black-bellied Whistling Ducks are widespread on both our islands.

In the end, we never got a chance to see the White Faced Whistling Duck – there was never any guarantee that it was still in the area to begin with. Nonetheless, it was a very productive day thanks to the Neo-tropical River Otter, Azure Gallinule and Buff breasted Sandpiper sightings – remarkable inhabitants of a remarkable swamp.

Following a relatively late start, the first noteworthy observation of the trip was that of four Red-bellied Macaws (Orthopsittaca manilata) on the edge of the Santa Flora Forest Reserve.

Red-bellied Macaws in Santa Flora

This was the first time that I had seen Red-bellied Macaws in this area although I suspect that wandering flocks from the Los Blanquizales Lagoon traverse south Trinidad as they have been reported in Penal, San Fernando and Siparia in the past. They were resting peacefully atop Palmiste palms until they were driven away by a group of Orange-winged Parrots (Amazona amazonica).

We arrived in Icacos at 9:00am and, typical of this part of Trinidad (Icacos receives less than 40 inches of rain per year), it was hot and dry. Even the herds of cattle that roam the area seemed to have given up trying to move in the heat.

Icacos cattle pasture

No Rufous-Crab Hawks (Buteogallus aequinoctialis) were seen in their “usual” spot atop an electricity tower near Los Gallos Village. Since they were observed mating in May, I have not had any indication that the pair went on to breed. What we did see was a small flock of Scarlet Ibis (Eudocimus rubber) perched in the mangroves.

Scarlet Ibis in Los Gallos Swamp

These ibis probably commute regularly between Trinidad and Venezuela to feed and reproduce. Formerly breeding in large numbers in Trinidad swamps, the population of Scarlet Ibis has fluctuated over the years for several reasons (including human disturbance, poaching, pollution and loss of habitat). Other than the ibis, there was little else in the way of birdlife to be seen – it was probably too late in the day for them to be active.

Arriving at Icacos Point we could clearly see Soldado Rock in the distance. About 6 miles off the coast of Trinidad, Soldado Rock has been officially designated as a wildlife reserve and is a breeding site for numerous Brown Noddies (Anous stolidus) and Sooty Terns (Onychoprion fuscata).

Soldado Rock

Several other seabirds can be seen there but the difficulty in accessing this rocky outcrop limits the regularity with which wildlife surveys can be conducted. Undoubtedly a complete list would contain many surprises.

Also visible in the distance was the coast of the Venezuelan state of Delta Amacuro. Here, along the extensive mangrove shrouded coast of Pedernales and Tucupita (two of Delta Amacuro’s four states), tributaries of the Orinoco River reach the sea. During the rainy season the volume of freshwater discharged by rivers on the mainland is enough to lower the salinity of the seawater along the south coast and even freshwater fish have been known to make the journey across to Trinidad.

Several large rafts of Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) drifted towards the shore. Washed out of tributaries of the Orinoco River following heavy rainfall and propelled by wind and tide, these rafts are doomed to drift until they wither at sea or die stranded on a beach.

Water Hyacinth raft drifting off the coast of Icacos

It is fairly well-know that these hyacinth islands sometimes function as life-rafts for mainland animals that happen to get flushed out into the sea and several species of reptiles, insects and even mammals have been known to make landfall on Trinidadian beaches via the hyacinths. So, being curious about such things, we waded out to one raft to examine it for anything of interest. Shortly thereafter a scream from my mother alerted us to the fact that she had found a snake.

Its dark bands and red markings along with eyes placed near the top of its head identified it as Helicops angulatus – an aquatic non-venomous snake that lives in fresh and brackish water.

Helicops angulatus (on beach)

It seemed quite unfazed by the seawater (and its long journey) as it slithered about the submerged hyacinth roots. Eventually, as the raft neared the shore, it was broken up by the waves and the snake decided to abandon the hyacinths.

Helicops angulatus (swimming to beach)

The snake soon washed ashore (see first picture) and lay there for a while until I moved it out of fear that someone would tread upon it. Unfortunately I doubt it would have survived for long as there was no suitable freshwater habitat nearby.

Anacondas, Orinoco Crocodiles, freshwater turtles, Capybara and even a tapir have all reportedly been washed ashore with hyacinths and other river debris. Certainly there must have been other species that came ashore unnoticed in the past. Turning again to the waves, a much larger raft of water hyacinth was approaching but unfortunately it was time for us to leave. Who knows what else was about to make landfall in Icacos?

Bush Bush island was brought to the attention of naturalists back in 1959 when a series of studies were made of the lifecycle of the yellow Fever virus. The studies and the experiences of the scientists working at the site were documented in a fascinating book by C. Brooke Worth titled “A Naturalist in Trinidad” and it was partly because of this book I was excited to visit the area. So excited that I awoke at 2:30 a.m. that morning to get there. 

At the start of the trail we were greeted by a signboard typical of sites of ecological value throughout Trinidad and Tobago. 

Forestry Department signboard in Bush Bush

Heading into the dense, dark forest our guide (who is authorized by the forestry department to enter the area) pointed out the various trees and plants that surrounded us. In hindsight I should have paid more attention to what he was saying as he rattled off valuable information on the flora that surrounded us because at the end of the day I still didn’t know what a Crappo or Guatecare tree looked like. I was too busy looking for birds. Mere shadows at that time of the morning, we barely made out a party of White-flanked Antwrens (Myrmotherula axillaries) and an occasional White-bearded Manakin (Manacus manacus). Overall I was surprised by the lack of birdlife but no doubt this was due to the noise generated by our group as we shuffled through the leaf litter. Also I was a bit concerned about encountering any snakes – Fer-de-lance (Bothrops atrox) and Anaconda (Eunectes murinus gigas) all occur in Bush-Bush. Needless to say I spent a lot of time looking at the ground rather than the trees. 

And it was on the wet forest floor we spotted this stunning butterfly – the Ruddy Daggerwing (Marpesia peterus). 

Ruddy Daggerwing (Marpesia petreus)

It was drinking water from the wet sand in one of the rare shafts of sunlight that penetrated the tree canopy. Malcom Barcant (who gave it the local name of Tailed Flambeau) described Marpesia petreus in “Butterflies of Trinidad and Tobago” as a migrant and there must be many of them about this year as I had seen two the day before in Rousillac. Not so camera friendly was this Cassia’s Owl Butterfly (Opsiphanes cassiae) which hid under leaves in the dark forest.  

Cassia's Owl Butterfly (Opsiphanes cassiae)

This butterfly’s preference for dark resting places makes sense as it is primarily seen at dusk when it comes out to feed on the juices of ripe fruit. 

Bush Bush was chosen for the study of Yellow Fever because of the populations of Red Howler monkeys (Alouatta seniculus insularis) that live here. The virus uses the monkeys as hosts and is transmitted by a certain forest dwelling mosquito between monkeys and to humans who happen to be nearby.  We occasionally heard the monkeys as they bellowed in the distance. Twice we even got fleeting glances of individual monkeys who, unnerved by our presence, quietly slipped into the dense forest. Our guide pointed out several odd mounds along the way upon which numerous seedlings sprouted. 

Red Howler dung pile

The Red Howler-Monkeys, he revealed, came to the forest floor to defecate in specific spots in an attempt to mask their presence in the area from predators or as a means of reducing the spread of harmful pathogens in the group. I remember seeing a television documentary once which showed a South American tree sloth engaged in the same behavior. It was suggested that the sloth did this as the sound of falling feces, as it hit leaves and branches, could attract predators. It also keeps the scent from spreading all over the area. Perhaps the monkeys followed the same logic. 

Eventually the forest thinned and we arrived at the old boathouse.

House at the end of the boatline in Bush Bush

This, I believe, was the location of the station used for the research into yellow fever which was mentioned earlier. It seems that the same channel we traversed last year when going to look at the Jabiru Storks would have eventually taken us here (with some difficulty given that there was no functional boat landing to speak of). This is also the site of the Blue and Yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna) reintroduction project which began in 1999. 

Blue and Yellow Macaw flight cage

The large flight cage was used to acclimatize birds (which were imported from South America) before being released. The project seems to have been a success and the introduced birds are breeding but only time will tell if the populations will be able to sustain themselves in the long run. No macaws were seen on this day and we were advised that the birds were probably feeding in another section of the swamp as the flocks roam the vast sanctuary (and outside of it) looking for fruiting trees. 

As we walked the island looking for macaws we came across this dead Prehensile-tailed Porcupine (Coendou prehensilis). 

Prehensile-tailed porcupine (Coendou prehensilis)

My guess is that it fell from the tree above and died from the impact as we could see no wounds or other cause of death. It had probably died relatively recently as it was largely intact but I wonder if vultures would dare brave the quills to feed on the carcass. 

A bit further on we were attracted by movement in the branches above the trail. Here, in a mango tree, was as group of Capuchins (Cebus albifrons trinitatis). 

Capuchin Monkey (Cebus albifrons trinitatis)

There were at least two adult monkeys and three babies feeding and playing here. One adult went on to feed on the palm nuts from some Cocorite palms. But the Capuchins were not the only ones feeding here. Several Red howler Monkeys came into view – some with babies which clung tenaciously to their mothers as they clambered through the branches. 

Red Howler Monkey (Alouatta seniculus insularis)

It was partially due to the existence of these monkeys (and the subsequent research into Yellow Fever that their presence facilitated) that the Bush Bush area was declared a wildlife sanctuary in July 1968 with the hope that the biodiversity within would be preserved. Walking out of Bush Bush while savoring the final offerings of the forest, it seems to me that Trinidad and Tobago might have saved this wilderness just in time.

With the onset of the first rains after the dry season, butterflies emerge in their thousands all over the island. This then begs an obvious question. “Where were they all this time?” Many people may not be aware of the details of a butterfly’s life-cycle. The truth is that the majority of a butterfly’s life is spent in the larval stage where they remain (as a caterpillar), gorging on vegetation, molting and eventually forming a chrysalis. A real miracle happens in the chrysalis as the entire caterpillar breaks-down and then reassembles itself as a winged butterfly. No easy feat for a simple organism and one that takes time. And this is the answer to our question. Many will stay for months in this mode and may deliberately extend their stay until a rise in humidity and lowering of light levels signal that the time is right to emerge. This timing of course coincides with the regrowth of vegetation, providing fresh leaves for caterpillars and the nectar of which adult butterflies feed on. Having avoided the worst of the dry season the newly minted butterfly will live for only a few weeks, many dying when they are simply unable to sustain flight on tattered wings, shredded by predators and abrasion. They now feed only to fuel their flight and live only to reproduce.

Unidentified caterpillar

And you can find them almost anywhere -wasteland, forest, gardens, swamps and even at the seaside. Of course once you grow accustomed to the common species in an area, a visit to a new area is often necessary to reveal new species. At my home there is a surprising lack of species in my parent’s ever-blooming garden so it is fortunate that I have recently gained access to a rarely visited wilderness – the Rousillac Swamp. With the landowner’s permission I am free to explore the “bush” surrounding the swamp and the mangrove forest itself but with the swamp currently flooded, I have an excuse to sideline bird-watching for a moment and indulge in butterflies.

Rousillac Swamp, Trinidad and Tobago

In the open areas of the swamp, on the edge of the reed beds, sun loving species fed on Black Sage (Cordia curassavica). These sun-lovers usually begin to feed around 9:00 am as the temperature rises. Some, like this Banded Banner (Pyrrhogyra neaerea), are quick to fly off and are difficult to approach.

Banded Banner (Pyrrhogyra neaerea)

It often settles on vegetation just out of reach several feet off the ground, adding to the difficulty. Others, like this Claudina Crescent (Tegosa claudina), are easy to approach and will rest with open wings inviting a photograph.

Claudina Crescent (Tegosa claudina)

A more familiar butterfly is the Soldier (Danaus eresimus), relative to the famous Monarch. A robust flier, it frequently zigzagged over the open reeds.

Soldier (Danaus eresimus)

Perhaps the commonest butterfly of all, the Scarlet Peacock (Anartia amathea), flitted between the shrubs.

Scarlet Peacock (Anartia amathea)

Easily overlooked on account of its sheer abundance, it is nonetheless beautiful.

As the rising sun becomes unbearable I retreat to the tree line. In the mangroves I have previously seen the beautiful Lysippus Metalmark (Riodina lysippus),

Lysippus Metalmark (Riodina Lysippus)

a species I have also seen on the edge of the Icacos Swamps and I wonder what new species are in the mangroves now, just out of reach until later in the year. For now I am content to explore a strip of secondary forest.

Here shade lovers, like this Gold-bordered Hairstreak (Rekoa Palegon), rest on leaves or play in the shafts of sunlight streaming through the trees.

Gold-bordered Hairstreak (Rekoa palegon)

Many hairstreaks  have a surprisingly stunning metallic blue inner-wing in contrast to their sometimes dull under-wing. You can barely detect it as one flies off. More obvious is the dazzling blue of the well known Emperor or Common Morpho (Morpho helenor).

Common Morpho (Morpho helenor)

Frequently seen flying in the gloom of forests with their characteristic dipping flight, they also have stunning undersides with large owl-eyes to frighten predators. Morphos feed on the juices of fruits instead of flowers. So too does this Orange Banner (Temenis laothoe) which when at rest I have always seen with one wing slightly out of line with the other.

Orange Banner (Temenis laothoe)

But for my favorite butterfly, also a fruit juice-sucker, I would have to wait until later in the day. In the evening the Satyrs emerge. They love dark and damp areas, staying close to the ground and are mostly brown and unattractive. However amongst this group is the Hyalinus Pierella (Pierella Hyalinus).

Hyalinus Pierella (Pierella Hyalinus)

Its uniquely extended lower wing and slow flight gives it a ghostly appearance in the gloom of evening. But the delicate marking on its under-wing masks its true beauty – a stunning iridescent inner wing, visible for a second as it alights on the ground (though not as blue as it appears in this photo).

Hyalinus Pierella (Pierella Hyalinus)

I doubt the residents of Rousillac would have ever thought that such jewels exist in the small strip of bush circling the swamp. Frequently burnt, polluted and hunted, it is a phenomena repeated throughout Trinidad and Tobago. But the expressions of surprise I hear from people; “You find THAT in the swamp?” tells of the potential in us all to really learn to appreciate what we have here on our islands if given the opportunity.

The Cat’s Hill area is dominated by two radically different forest types . One portion is covered by extensive teak fields; actively harvested by loggers, heavily eroded and ritually burned. The other section is covered by lowland forest, part of a massive expanse that reaches all the way to the Trinity Hills. I was interested in seeing the damage done by the fires in the Cat’s Hill teak fields, so on April 11th my dad and myself visited the area.

The fire damage to the teak field was severe as expected.

Teak (Tectonis grandis) produces a considerable volume of leaf litter which, in the dry season, is easily ignited. The fires not only clear the leaf litter, but will also burn off the undergrowth. The result is the complete removal of ground cover and the now exposed earth is susceptible to erosion (and the eventual loss of soil nutrients). You might think this would be disastrous to the teak fields but teak is in fact quite fire resistant thanks to the high levels of silica in its wood. Foresters use this to their advantage and deliberately set fires to the fields; the clear ground making it easier for them to operate. Additionally, by reducing the number of other plant species present, competition by the trees for light and scarce soil nutrients is reduced. Not surprisingly, the only other common plant in these areas is the spiny Lata Palm (Bactris Major) which can tolerate the frequent burning.

White Hawk (Leucopternis albicollis)

What I did not expect was that there was life here. A White Hawk (Leucopternis albicollis) perched on a blackened tree stood out like the proverbial sore thumb. Eventually, unnerved by our presence, it flew deeper into the field (Don’t be fooled by the greenery in the background; it was one of the few green trees to be seen).  While it might be easier now for these raptors to see their prey (those lizards and rodents that managed to escape the fires) on the forest floor, I wonder if there is much prey to be had at all in the ash.

Tropical Pewee (Contopus cinereus)

Other regular inhabitants, like this Tropical Pewee (Contopus cinereus) and Striped Cuckoo (Tapera naevia), seemed to be equally at home in the altered landscape.

Striped Cuckoo (Tapera naevia)

It is likely that these insect eaters would have to rely on the remaining patches of vegetation to supply them with food. At one point we even encountered a Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana), a bird typically found high up in the middle and upper storey of large trees, feeding a few feet off the ground in a small clump of roadside shrubs. This sort of adaptability is no doubt vital to life in such a harsh environment.

Perhaps even stranger was the unmistakable sound of Bearded Bellbirds (Procnias averano). Given their impressive vocal range it is hard to say whether they were actually positioned in the teak fields or in the forest beyond (the now leafless teak trees providing little resistance to the transmission of sound). Save for one fleeting view of a green bird that could possibly have been a female I have never actually seen a Bearded Bellbird here (or anywhere else for that matter). Either way, their calls made an interesting addition to the Cat’s Hill soundscape.

Leaving the teak fields we found the lowland forests in surprisingly good condition. The forest was dry and by midday the heat was unbearable but there was little evidence of fire. In the shade of the forest floor we chanced upon an ant swarm followed by a multitude of attending birds. Many bird species have learnt to follow these marauding swarms, picking off the insects that try to escape the ants. A total of seven species including Rufous breasted Wren (Thryothorus rutilus), Red-crowned Ant-Tanager (Habia rubica), White-lined tanager (Tachyphonus rufus), Plain-brown and Cocoa Woodcreepers (Dendrocincla fuliginosa/Xiphorhynchus susurrans), White-bellied Antbird (Myrmeciza longipes) and a Plain Antvireo (Dysithamnus mentalis) were seen that morning, however the gloom of the undergrowth prevented me from taking any decent photographs.

By 9:30 am we were nearing the Rio-Claro/Guayaguayare road when my dad pointed out a hawk in a tree up ahead. It was a large bird with a curious looking feather sticking up on its head and looking through the hazy windscreen it took me a couple of seconds to realize what we were looking at

Ornate Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus ornatus)

Incredibly, we had in front of us an adult Ornate Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus ornatus). I am not sure when one of these beautiful birds, normally associated with the mountain forests of the Northern  Range, was last documented in southern Trinidad but it was probably some time ago. Perhaps it was a resident of the Trinity Hills that was driven out by forest fires, or maybe a stray from as far a field as Venezuela or perhaps again a bird belonging to the Northern Range undergoing seasonal migration to the Venezuelan mainland. It is difficult to say for sure but it is fantastic to see one down here.

Ornate Hawk-Eagles and Bellbirds are not the only strangers in Cat’s Hill these days.

The state oil company, Petrotrin, has several production (oil)wells located throughout the area and they have recently leased them to private contractors for refurbishment and restarting/continuing extraction operations. It was surprising to see areas that I have driven by several times, suddenly clear of vegetation and with a pumping jack actively extracting that valuable commodity.

But before anyone reading this starts getting worked up about it, honestly I expect the damage to the environment to be minimal and, save for a well blowout or oil leak, the forests should be safe. Oil companies have been opereating in Cat’s Hill since the 1950’s and the “new” well sites we saw are in fact previously operating wells that, for one reason or another, were capped and abandoned, the forest slowly reclaiming the exposed land (note the green heliconia shoots already springing up in the foreground of the photo above). Indeed, it is because of the oil companies that we have tracts of forested land in Cat’s Hill, Guayaguayare, Point Fortin and elsewhere that might otherwise have been felled for housing or agriculture. And given the damage that fire can do to an oil producing facility I would hope that extra attention will now be given to the prevention of forest fires. This is not to say that the biodiversity of these areas has not been negatively affected for indeed they have, but given that industrialization must inevitably occur at some level, the current situation represents an acceptable compromise.

Finally, I was rather concerned to see two birds that were host to rather obvious white ticks on their faces (a bit disappointed too as my heart skipped a few beats both times thinking I was looking at a strange new bird). One a White-bearded Manakin and the other a Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, I have no particularly intelligent explanation for this observation and I find it strange that in both cases the birds have been unable to remove the bloodsuckers (both lodged on their cheek within range of their feet). I can only assume that the dry season had these birds stressed and therefore susceptible to such parasites but certainly this matter will require some further research. And given our experiences that day I think I’ve learnt my lesson about making assumptions.