Following a relatively late start, the first noteworthy observation of the trip was that of four Red-bellied Macaws (Orthopsittaca manilata) on the edge of the Santa Flora Forest Reserve.

Red-bellied Macaws in Santa Flora

This was the first time that I had seen Red-bellied Macaws in this area although I suspect that wandering flocks from the Los Blanquizales Lagoon traverse south Trinidad as they have been reported in Penal, San Fernando and Siparia in the past. They were resting peacefully atop Palmiste palms until they were driven away by a group of Orange-winged Parrots (Amazona amazonica).

We arrived in Icacos at 9:00am and, typical of this part of Trinidad (Icacos receives less than 40 inches of rain per year), it was hot and dry. Even the herds of cattle that roam the area seemed to have given up trying to move in the heat.

Icacos cattle pasture

No Rufous-Crab Hawks (Buteogallus aequinoctialis) were seen in their “usual” spot atop an electricity tower near Los Gallos Village. Since they were observed mating in May, I have not had any indication that the pair went on to breed. What we did see was a small flock of Scarlet Ibis (Eudocimus rubber) perched in the mangroves.

Scarlet Ibis in Los Gallos Swamp

These ibis probably commute regularly between Trinidad and Venezuela to feed and reproduce. Formerly breeding in large numbers in Trinidad swamps, the population of Scarlet Ibis has fluctuated over the years for several reasons (including human disturbance, poaching, pollution and loss of habitat). Other than the ibis, there was little else in the way of birdlife to be seen – it was probably too late in the day for them to be active.

Arriving at Icacos Point we could clearly see Soldado Rock in the distance. About 10 miles off the coast of Trinidad, Soldado Rock has been officially designated as a wildlife reserve and is a breeding site for numerous Brown Noddy (Anous stolidus) and Sooty Terns (Onychoprion fuscata).

Soldado Rock

Several other seabirds can be seen there but the difficulty in accessing this rocky outcrop limits the regularity with which wildlife surveys can be conducted. Undoubtedly a complete list would contain many surprises.

Also visible in the distance was the coast of the Venezuelan state of Delta Amacuro. Here, along the extensive mangrove shrouded coast of Pedernales and Tucupita (two of Delta Amacuro’s four states), tributaries of the Orinoco River reaches the sea. During the rainy season the volume of freshwater discharged by rivers on the mainland is enough to lower the salinity of the seawater along the south coast and even freshwater fish have been known to make the journey across to Trinidad.

Several large rafts of Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) drifted towards the shore. Washed out of tributaries of the Orinoco River following heavy rainfall and propelled by wind and tide, these rafts are doomed to drift until they wither at sea or die stranded on a beach.

Water Hyacinth raft drifting off the coast of Icacos

It is fairly well-know that these hyacinth islands sometimes function as life-rafts for mainland animals that happen to get flushed out into the sea and several species of reptiles, insects and even mammals have been known to make landfall on Trinidadian beaches via the hyacinths. So, being curious about such things, we waded out to one raft to examine it for anything of interest. Shortly thereafter a scream from my mother alerted us to the fact that she had found a snake.

Its dark bands and red markings along with eyes placed near the top of its head identified it as Helicops angulatus – an aquatic non-venomous snake that lives in fresh and brackish water.

Helicops angulatus (on beach)

It seemed quite unfazed by the seawater (and its long journey) as it slithered about the submerged hyacinth roots. Eventually, as the raft neared the shore, it was broken up by the waves and the snake decided to abandon the hyacinths.

Helicops angulatus (swimming to beach)

The snake soon washed ashore (see first picture) and lay there for a while until I moved it out of fear that someone would tread upon it. Unfortunately I doubt it would have survived for long as there was no suitable freshwater habitat nearby.

Anacondas, Orinoco Crocodiles, freshwater turtles, Capybara and even a tapir have all reportedly been washed ashore with hyacinths and other river debris. Certainly there must have been other species that came ashore unnoticed in the past. Turning again to the waves, a much larger raft of water hyacinth was approaching but unfortunately it was time for us to leave. Who knows what else was about to make landfall in Icacos?

Paint-billed Crake (Neocrex erythrops)

The Paint-billed Crakes (Neocrex erythrops) were actually seen in late July (the bird seen here was spotted on 25 July), but were seen occasionally in August. In all about four (4) birds were seen in various parts of the South Oropouche Lagoon during the period.

Lined Seedeater (Sporophila lineola). Photo by Dave Smith

Lined Seedeaters (Sporophila lineola) have been reported visiting the South Oropouche Lagoon for four (4) years now. After a weak showing last year the birds have returned in larger numbers. Fewer males (like this one digiscoped by Dave Smith) are seen than females.

Lesser Elaenia (Elaenia chiriquensis)

Away from the South Oropouche, this Lesser Elaenia (Elaenia chiriquensis) was seen in the Rousillac Swamp on 15 August. It is probably not as rare as believed – the bird easily escapes attention in its scrub habitat

Dark-billed Cuckoo (Coccyzus melacoryphus)

 At the end of the month a Dark-billed Cuckoos (Coccyzus melacoryphus) was seen in the South Oropouche Lagoon. A bird was spotted by Nigel Lallsingh on 31 August and a secong bird was seen shortly after. A rare visitor to scrub.

Aplomado Falcon (Falco femoralis)

And luck would strike twice that day as an Aplomado Falcon (Falco femoralis) was seen flying low over the open fields near to the pair of Dark-billed Cuckoos. A rare visitor from the north usually recorded later in the year.

Bush Bush island was brought to the attention of naturalists back in 1959 when a series of studies were made of the lifecycle of the yellow Fever virus. The studies and the experiences of the scientists working at the site were documented in a fascinating book by C. Brooke Worth titled “A Naturalist in Trinidad” and it was partly because of this book I was excited to visit the area. So excited that I awoke at 2:30 a.m. that morning to get there. 

At the start of the trail we were greeted by a signboard typical of sites of ecological value throughout Trinidad and Tobago. 

Forestry Department signboard in Bush Bush

Heading into the dense, dark forest our guide (who is authorized by the forestry department to enter the area) pointed out the various trees and plants that surrounded us. In hindsight I should have paid more attention to what he was saying as he rattled off valuable information on the flora that surrounded us because at the end of the day I still didn’t know what a Crappo or Guatecare tree looked like. I was too busy looking for birds. Mere shadows at that time of the morning, we barely made out a party of White-flanked Antwrens (Myrmotherula axillaries) and an occasional White-bearded Manakin (Manacus manacus). Overall I was surprised by the lack of birdlife but no doubt this was due to the noise generated by our group as we shuffled through the leaf litter. Also I was a bit concerned about encountering any snakes – Fer-de-lance (Bothrops atrox) and Anaconda (Eunectes murinus gigas) all occur in Bush-Bush. Needless to say I spent a lot of time looking at the ground rather than the trees. 

And it was on the wet forest floor we spotted this stunning butterfly – the Ruddy Daggerwing (Marpesia peterus). 

Ruddy Daggerwing (Marpesia petreus)

It was drinking water from the wet sand in one of the rare shafts of sunlight that penetrated the tree canopy. Malcom Barcant (who gave it the local name of Tailed Flambeau) described Marpesia petreus in “Butterflies of Trinidad and Tobago” as a migrant and there must be many of them about this year as I had seen two the day before in Rousillac. Not so camera friendly was this Cassia’s Owl Butterfly (Opsiphanes cassiae) which hid under leaves in the dark forest.  

Cassia's Owl Butterfly (Opsiphanes cassiae)

This butterfly’s preference for dark resting places makes sense as it is primarily seen at dusk when it comes out to feed on the juices of ripe fruit. 

Bush Bush was chosen for the study of Yellow Fever because of the populations of Red Howler monkeys (Alouatta seniculus insularis) that live here. The virus uses the monkeys as hosts and is transmitted by a certain forest dwelling mosquito between monkeys and to humans who happen to be nearby.  We occasionally heard the monkeys as they bellowed in the distance. Twice we even got fleeting glances of individual monkeys who, unnerved by our presence, quietly slipped into the dense forest. Our guide pointed out several odd mounds along the way upon which numerous seedlings sprouted. 

Red Howler dung pile

The Red Howler-Monkeys, he revealed, came to the forest floor to defecate in specific spots in an attempt to mask their presence in the area from predators or as a means of reducing the spread of harmful pathogens in the group. I remember seeing a television documentary once which showed a South American tree sloth engaged in the same behavior. It was suggested that the sloth did this as the sound of falling feces, as it hit leaves and branches, could attract predators. It also keeps the scent from spreading all over the area. Perhaps the monkeys followed the same logic. 

Eventually the forest thinned and we arrived at the old boathouse.

House at the end of the boatline in Bush Bush

This, I believe, was the location of the station used for the research into yellow fever which was mentioned earlier. It seems that the same channel we traversed last year when going to look at the Jabiru Storks would have eventually taken us here (with some difficulty given that there was no functional boat landing to speak of). This is also the site of the Blue and Yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna) reintroduction project which began in 1999. 

Blue and Yellow Macaw flight cage

The large flight cage was used to acclimatize birds (which were imported from South America) before being released. The project seems to have been a success and the introduced birds are breeding but only time will tell if the populations will be able to sustain themselves in the long run. No macaws were seen on this day and we were advised that the birds were probably feeding in another section of the swamp as the flocks roam the vast sanctuary (and outside of it) looking for fruiting trees. 

As we walked the island looking for macaws we came across this dead Prehensile-tailed Porcupine (Coendou prehensilis). 

Prehensile-tailed porcupine (Coendou prehensilis)

My guess is that it fell from the tree above and died from the impact as we could see no wounds or other cause of death. It had probably died relatively recently as it was largely intact but I wonder if vultures would dare brave the quills to feed on the carcass. 

A bit further on we were attracted by movement in the branches above the trail. Here, in a mango tree, was as group of Capuchins (Cebus albifrons trinitatis). 

Capuchin Monkey (Cebus albifrons trinitatis)

There were at least two adult monkeys and three babies feeding and playing here. One adult went on to feed on the palm nuts from some Cocorite palms. But the Capuchins were not the only ones feeding here. Several Red howler Monkeys came into view – some with babies which clung tenaciously to their mothers as they clambered through the branches. 

Red Howler Monkey (Alouatta seniculus insularis)

It was partially due to the existence of these monkeys (and the subsequent research into Yellow Fever that their presence facilitated) that the Bush Bush area was declared a wildlife sanctuary in July 1968 with the hope that the biodiversity within would be preserved. Walking out of Bush Bush while savoring the final offerings of the forest, it seems to me that Trinidad and Tobago might have saved this wilderness just in time.

With the onset of the first rains after the dry season, butterflies emerge in their thousands all over the island. This then begs an obvious question. “Where were they all this time?” Many people may not be aware of the details of a butterfly’s life-cycle. The truth is that the majority of a butterfly’s life is spent in the larval stage where they remain (as a caterpillar), gorging on vegetation, molting and eventually forming a chrysalis. A real miracle happens in the chrysalis as the entire caterpillar breaks-down and then reassembles itself as a winged butterfly. No easy feat for a simple organism and one that takes time. And this is the answer to our question. Many will stay for months in this mode and may deliberately extend their stay until a rise in humidity and lowering of light levels signal that the time is right to emerge. This timing of course coincides with the regrowth of vegetation, providing fresh leaves for caterpillars and the nectar of which adult butterflies feed on. Having avoided the worst of the dry season the newly minted butterfly will live for only a few weeks, many dying when they are simply unable to sustain flight on tattered wings, shredded by predators and abrasion. They now feed only to fuel their flight and live only to reproduce.

Unidentified caterpillar

And you can find them almost anywhere -wasteland, forest, gardens, swamps and even at the seaside. Of course once you grow accustomed to the common species in an area, a visit to a new area is often necessary to reveal new species. At my home there is a surprising lack of species in my parent’s ever-blooming garden so it is fortunate that I have recently gained access to a rarely visited wilderness – the Rousillac Swamp. With the landowner’s permission I am free to explore the “bush” surrounding the swamp and the mangrove forest itself but with the swamp currently flooded, I have an excuse to sideline bird-watching for a moment and indulge in butterflies.

Rousillac Swamp, Trinidad and Tobago

In the open areas of the swamp, on the edge of the reed beds, sun loving species fed on Black Sage (Cordia curassavica). These sun-lovers usually begin to feed around 9:00 am as the temperature rises. Some, like this Banded Banner (Pyrrhogyra neaerea), are quick to fly off and are difficult to approach.

Banded Banner (Pyrrhogyra neaerea)

It often settles on vegetation just out of reach several feet off the ground, adding to the difficulty. Others, like this Claudina Crescent (Tegosa claudina), are easy to approach and will rest with open wings inviting a photograph.

Claudina Crescent (Tegosa claudina)

A more familiar butterfly is the Soldier (Danaus eresimus), relative to the famous Monarch. A robust flier, it frequently zigzagged over the open reeds.

Soldier (Danaus eresimus)

Perhaps the commonest butterfly of all, the Scarlet Peacock (Anartia amathea), flitted between the shrubs.

Scarlet Peacock (Anartia amathea)

Easily overlooked on account of its sheer abundance, it is nonetheless beautiful.

As the rising sun becomes unbearable I retreat to the tree line. In the mangroves I have previously seen the beautiful Lysippus Metalmark (Riodina lysippus),

Lysippus Metalmark (Riodina Lysippus)

a species I have also seen on the edge of the Icacos Swamps and I wonder what new species are in the mangroves now, just out of reach until later in the year. For now I am content to explore a strip of secondary forest.

Here shade lovers, like this Gold-bordered Hairstreak (Rekoa Palegon), rest on leaves or play in the shafts of sunlight streaming through the trees.

Gold-bordered Hairstreak (Rekoa palegon)

Many hairstreaks  have a surprisingly stunning metallic blue inner-wing in contrast to their sometimes dull under-wing. You can barely detect it as one flies off. More obvious is the dazzling blue of the well known Emperor or Common Morpho (Morpho helenor).

Common Morpho (Morpho helenor)

Frequently seen flying in the gloom of forests with their characteristic dipping flight, they also have stunning undersides with large owl-eyes to frighten predators. Morphos feed on the juices of fruits instead of flowers. So too does this Orange Banner (Temenis laothoe) which when at rest I have always seen with one wing slightly out of line with the other.

Orange Banner (Temenis laothoe)

But for my favorite butterfly, also a fruit juice-sucker, I would have to wait until later in the day. In the evening the Satyrs emerge. They love dark and damp areas, staying close to the ground and are mostly brown and unattractive. However amongst this group is the Hyalinus Pierella (Pierella Hyalinus).

Hyalinus Pierella (Pierella Hyalinus)

Its uniquely extended lower wing and slow flight gives it a ghostly appearance in the gloom of evening. But the delicate marking on its under-wing masks its true beauty – a stunning iridescent inner wing, visible for a second as it alights on the ground (though not as blue as it appears in this photo).

Hyalinus Pierella (Pierella Hyalinus)

I doubt the residents of Rousillac would have ever thought that such jewels exist in the small strip of bush circling the swamp. Frequently burnt, polluted and hunted, it is a phenomena repeated throughout Trinidad and Tobago. But the expressions of surprise I hear from people; “You find THAT in the swamp?” tells of the potential in us all to really learn to appreciate what we have here on our islands if given the opportunity.